Christina’s guidebook to Lesvos

Christina
Christina’s guidebook to Lesvos

Greek beaches

A truly remote, rustic and unspoilt Greek beach with a fabulous family-run cantina open in July and August offering a full range of home-made cooked food, great music and chilled places to hang out and enjoy the views. It is also one of the few remaining places to camp...for free! Podaras also has a variety of walks to enjoy that take you on an exploration of the amazing mountain range with its hidden caves, a bamboo trail through local farmland and a tiny little church on the mountain top. There are fresh water reserves with all manner of local wildlife, including frogs and terrapins and two or three homes belonging to locals who will welcome you with open arms if you give them half a chance! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 2 minute walk down the stone steps.
Podaras
A truly remote, rustic and unspoilt Greek beach with a fabulous family-run cantina open in July and August offering a full range of home-made cooked food, great music and chilled places to hang out and enjoy the views. It is also one of the few remaining places to camp...for free! Podaras also has a variety of walks to enjoy that take you on an exploration of the amazing mountain range with its hidden caves, a bamboo trail through local farmland and a tiny little church on the mountain top. There are fresh water reserves with all manner of local wildlife, including frogs and terrapins and two or three homes belonging to locals who will welcome you with open arms if you give them half a chance! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 2 minute walk down the stone steps.
An almost deserted wide beach, lined with just a handful of residential homes and plenty of trees. There are acres of beach space here and it is often quite windy so perfect for sports pursuits such as kite surfing. There is also a beautifully rustic cantina open in the summer months and a tiny little church up the hill to explore. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 5km / 15 minutes slow drive over dirt tracks
Chrousos
An almost deserted wide beach, lined with just a handful of residential homes and plenty of trees. There are acres of beach space here and it is often quite windy so perfect for sports pursuits such as kite surfing. There is also a beautifully rustic cantina open in the summer months and a tiny little church up the hill to explore. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 5km / 15 minutes slow drive over dirt tracks
Eressos beach ('Skala Eressos') is a tourist mecca in the summer months! The beach runs all the way along the coast of Eressos, beginning at the harbour side and ending at the widest stretch of beach where a range of water sports activities can be found - from wind and kite surfing to banana-boats! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18km / 28 minutes easy-going drive.
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Eresos
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Eressos beach ('Skala Eressos') is a tourist mecca in the summer months! The beach runs all the way along the coast of Eressos, beginning at the harbour side and ending at the widest stretch of beach where a range of water sports activities can be found - from wind and kite surfing to banana-boats! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18km / 28 minutes easy-going drive.

Food scene

The fishing village of Tavari comes alive in the summer months. Its promenade along the sea edge is lined with local tavernas, bars and cafes, all frequented by the locals - a sure sign of excellent food and even better value! There is a working harbour where you can watch the fishermen bringing in the catch of the day and, further up the road and a little way into the mountains, Allegro music bar, open late into the night and offering a variety of live band talent. An excellent place for lazy morning coffees, family beach days and dining out in the evenings. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 3km / 20 minute slow walk along the beautiful coastal road - something that should not be missed on a moonlit night!
Tavari
The fishing village of Tavari comes alive in the summer months. Its promenade along the sea edge is lined with local tavernas, bars and cafes, all frequented by the locals - a sure sign of excellent food and even better value! There is a working harbour where you can watch the fishermen bringing in the catch of the day and, further up the road and a little way into the mountains, Allegro music bar, open late into the night and offering a variety of live band talent. An excellent place for lazy morning coffees, family beach days and dining out in the evenings. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 3km / 20 minute slow walk along the beautiful coastal road - something that should not be missed on a moonlit night!
For meat and seafood lovers, this is the taverna to visit in Tavari! A family-run business offering the full spectrum of traditional Greek dishes, plenty of mezé offerings and a friendly smile from Paloukos himself. The lamb chops and squid are to die for! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 3km / 20 minute slow walk along the beautiful coastal road - something that should not be missed on a moonlit night!
Taverna Paloukos
For meat and seafood lovers, this is the taverna to visit in Tavari! A family-run business offering the full spectrum of traditional Greek dishes, plenty of mezé offerings and a friendly smile from Paloukos himself. The lamb chops and squid are to die for! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 3km / 20 minute slow walk along the beautiful coastal road - something that should not be missed on a moonlit night!
A beautiful place under the plain tree in Eressos village square. Serving a wide range of delicious Greek & soul kitchen food throughout the day and well into the night, it is also a great place for breakfasts - the range of omelettes is staggering! Great service, even better prices and a truly Greek summer ambience. It's also the perfect spot from which to people watch! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18km / 28 minutes easy-going drive.
KAFENE RESTAURANT
Πλατεία 7
A beautiful place under the plain tree in Eressos village square. Serving a wide range of delicious Greek & soul kitchen food throughout the day and well into the night, it is also a great place for breakfasts - the range of omelettes is staggering! Great service, even better prices and a truly Greek summer ambience. It's also the perfect spot from which to people watch! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18km / 28 minutes easy-going drive.
An amazing place for breakfasts, snacks, crepes and ice-cream. The variety of dishes on the menu is mind-boggling! Perfectly located right on the main square of Eressos and overlooking the sea, the service is great, portion-sizes generous and the prices even better! Holiday makers and locals alike are all given a friendly welcome. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18km / 28 minutes easy-going drive
Gialos - Cafe
An amazing place for breakfasts, snacks, crepes and ice-cream. The variety of dishes on the menu is mind-boggling! Perfectly located right on the main square of Eressos and overlooking the sea, the service is great, portion-sizes generous and the prices even better! Holiday makers and locals alike are all given a friendly welcome. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18km / 28 minutes easy-going drive

Sightseeing

On the road from Mesotopos to Eressos, just before a bridge and sharp bend, you will see a sign on the right pointing up a dirt track to Moni Pithariou. Take this track, even though it’s a bit rough, and just keep going for 2-3km. It will be worth it! This lovely little mountain monastery and church is open every day in the summer and overlooks a truly amazing landscape - the largest fresh water reservoir on the island! Ladies, it is polite to cover shoulders and legs while visiting this working monastery. But don't worry if you're not dressed for the occasion as there are items of suitable clothing to borrow at the entrance. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 19km / 25 minutes easy-going drive.
Moni Pithariou
On the road from Mesotopos to Eressos, just before a bridge and sharp bend, you will see a sign on the right pointing up a dirt track to Moni Pithariou. Take this track, even though it’s a bit rough, and just keep going for 2-3km. It will be worth it! This lovely little mountain monastery and church is open every day in the summer and overlooks a truly amazing landscape - the largest fresh water reservoir on the island! Ladies, it is polite to cover shoulders and legs while visiting this working monastery. But don't worry if you're not dressed for the occasion as there are items of suitable clothing to borrow at the entrance. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 19km / 25 minutes easy-going drive.
The Monastery of Ipsilou is an absolute must see during your stay on Lesvos. Situated in the west and on top of Mount Ordymnos at an altitude of 634 meters, the views of the island are utterly spectacular from here. The monastery is dedicated to Agios Ioannis Theologos and is one of the oldest structures on the island, dating back to the Byzantine period before 800 AD. Along with the monastery grounds, packed full with flowers, there is also a museum housing unique antique relics and six reliquaries with the bones of Saints. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 30km / 35 minutes easy-going drive
Moni Agiou Ioanni Theotokou Ipsilou
The Monastery of Ipsilou is an absolute must see during your stay on Lesvos. Situated in the west and on top of Mount Ordymnos at an altitude of 634 meters, the views of the island are utterly spectacular from here. The monastery is dedicated to Agios Ioannis Theologos and is one of the oldest structures on the island, dating back to the Byzantine period before 800 AD. Along with the monastery grounds, packed full with flowers, there is also a museum housing unique antique relics and six reliquaries with the bones of Saints. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 30km / 35 minutes easy-going drive
Visitors to Lesvos may be disappointed to hear that the Petrified Forest, a protected natural monument with worldwide recognition and located on the Western side of the island, is currently closed to visitors. However, the Museum in Sigri is situated right in the centre of the protected area of ​​the Forest and is well worth a visit. Founded in 1994, it is a non-profit entity and is overseen by the Ministry of Culture. It is dedicated to the study, research, promotion, exhibition, conservation and protection of the Petrified Forest of Lesvos. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 39km / 55 minutes easy-going drive
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The Natural History Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest
5 Epar.Od. Antissa-Sigri
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Visitors to Lesvos may be disappointed to hear that the Petrified Forest, a protected natural monument with worldwide recognition and located on the Western side of the island, is currently closed to visitors. However, the Museum in Sigri is situated right in the centre of the protected area of ​​the Forest and is well worth a visit. Founded in 1994, it is a non-profit entity and is overseen by the Ministry of Culture. It is dedicated to the study, research, promotion, exhibition, conservation and protection of the Petrified Forest of Lesvos. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 39km / 55 minutes easy-going drive

Tourist hot spot

This beachside resort has a cool, laid-back, bohemian vibe and is a ‘must visit’ for the traveller in you. It has a wide range of cafés, bars, tavernas and some beautiful clothes and gift shops for shopaholics! Why not spend a whole day here? Find your spot at one of the beach bars, hang out, swim, soak up the sun, eat and while away the hours. If you are feeling very energetic, take a swim out to the little island or have a go at kite-surfing. Then, as the day draws to a close, try a sun-downer cocktail and then go dancing! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18km / 25 minutes easy-going drive.
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Skala Eressou
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This beachside resort has a cool, laid-back, bohemian vibe and is a ‘must visit’ for the traveller in you. It has a wide range of cafés, bars, tavernas and some beautiful clothes and gift shops for shopaholics! Why not spend a whole day here? Find your spot at one of the beach bars, hang out, swim, soak up the sun, eat and while away the hours. If you are feeling very energetic, take a swim out to the little island or have a go at kite-surfing. Then, as the day draws to a close, try a sun-downer cocktail and then go dancing! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18km / 25 minutes easy-going drive.
Petra is on the way to the slightly more fashionable Molyvos/Mithymna and is well worth exploring. Stretched along a long umbrella-filled beach lined with cafes and tavernas, the interior of the town of Petra surrounds a rock mountain topped with the church of the Glykfylousa Panagia (Our Lady of the Sweet Kiss), first built in the 17th century. You reach the top of the rock by climbing the 114 steps carved into the stone. From the church the view of Petra and the surrounding sea and is spectacular. Below the rock is the tiny Church of Agios Nikolaos decorated with 16th century wall paintings. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 55km / 1 hour and 15 minutes leisurely drive around some of the bendiest roads on the island - but the views are worth it!
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Petra
Epar.Od. Petras-Skalochoriou
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Petra is on the way to the slightly more fashionable Molyvos/Mithymna and is well worth exploring. Stretched along a long umbrella-filled beach lined with cafes and tavernas, the interior of the town of Petra surrounds a rock mountain topped with the church of the Glykfylousa Panagia (Our Lady of the Sweet Kiss), first built in the 17th century. You reach the top of the rock by climbing the 114 steps carved into the stone. From the church the view of Petra and the surrounding sea and is spectacular. Below the rock is the tiny Church of Agios Nikolaos decorated with 16th century wall paintings. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 55km / 1 hour and 15 minutes leisurely drive around some of the bendiest roads on the island - but the views are worth it!
This picturesque town is sometimes called by its ancient name 'Mithymna', but is most often referred to by its more modern title 'Molyvos'. It is set up a mountain, with an ancient castle at the very top which is beautifully lit up at night. Famous for its jewellery, craft and clothes stores, it is the perfect place to while away the hours browsing through its gorgeous cobbled streets. When you've done all your shopping, take a stroll down to the working harbour and take your pick of dozens of traditional Greek tavernas for dinner. There is also an open-air cinema here - sister to the one in Eressos. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 60km / 1 hour and 20 minutes easy-going drive around some of the bendiest roads on the island - but the views are more than worth it!
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Mithymna
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This picturesque town is sometimes called by its ancient name 'Mithymna', but is most often referred to by its more modern title 'Molyvos'. It is set up a mountain, with an ancient castle at the very top which is beautifully lit up at night. Famous for its jewellery, craft and clothes stores, it is the perfect place to while away the hours browsing through its gorgeous cobbled streets. When you've done all your shopping, take a stroll down to the working harbour and take your pick of dozens of traditional Greek tavernas for dinner. There is also an open-air cinema here - sister to the one in Eressos. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 60km / 1 hour and 20 minutes easy-going drive around some of the bendiest roads on the island - but the views are more than worth it!

Traditional Greek life

Further up the mountain from Tavari is the incredibly pretty village of Mesotopos. There is a variety of shops, kafenions and facilities here, including a bakery, butcher, greengrocer, dairy, supermarket and gift shop. Whatever you do, don’t miss the lovely little museum, Magda’s Ceramics Workshop or the honey-processing works. And be sure to drive up to the Women’s Co-operative shop (on the main road out to Kalloni) for some gorgeous locally-made produce - perfect for authentic presents from Greece! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 5km / 15 minutes easy-going drive.
Mesotopos
Further up the mountain from Tavari is the incredibly pretty village of Mesotopos. There is a variety of shops, kafenions and facilities here, including a bakery, butcher, greengrocer, dairy, supermarket and gift shop. Whatever you do, don’t miss the lovely little museum, Magda’s Ceramics Workshop or the honey-processing works. And be sure to drive up to the Women’s Co-operative shop (on the main road out to Kalloni) for some gorgeous locally-made produce - perfect for authentic presents from Greece! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 5km / 15 minutes easy-going drive.
Antissa is a large, beautiful village of immense historical interest. The modern village today grew out of the ancient city of Antissa, one of the earliest Aeolian settlements on the island. Αccording to local opinion, the ruins of the ancient city may still be observed on the sea bed of modern Antissa. Some of the main attractions to the area are the Monastery of Ypsilos (Moni Ypsilou, 11th century AD), the dreamy beach of Gavathas and Antissa’s amazing views to Asia Minor and the coast of Troy. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 29km / 45 minutes easy-going drive
Antissa
Antissa is a large, beautiful village of immense historical interest. The modern village today grew out of the ancient city of Antissa, one of the earliest Aeolian settlements on the island. Αccording to local opinion, the ruins of the ancient city may still be observed on the sea bed of modern Antissa. Some of the main attractions to the area are the Monastery of Ypsilos (Moni Ypsilou, 11th century AD), the dreamy beach of Gavathas and Antissa’s amazing views to Asia Minor and the coast of Troy. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 29km / 45 minutes easy-going drive
Agiassos is known throughout Greece for the church to the Virgin Mary, the Panagia ti Vrefokratousa. Pilgrims still come throughout the year but especially on the eve of the feast day of the Panagia (August 15th). Be warned: Agiasos is PACKED on this day! Life in Agiasos revolves around the many kafenions that surround the church. Men drink ouzo and eat mezé and tourists wander in and out of the pottery and antique shops that line the cobbled streets. The village is at a high enough altitude to be cool in the hot summer months so do not be afraid of visiting during the day! And, since most of the island's tourist activity takes place on the beaches and the coastal towns, places like Agiasos have maintained their traditions and time spent here is similar to the way it would have been 100 years ago. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 72km / 1 hour and 20 minutes leisurely drive
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Agiasos
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Agiassos is known throughout Greece for the church to the Virgin Mary, the Panagia ti Vrefokratousa. Pilgrims still come throughout the year but especially on the eve of the feast day of the Panagia (August 15th). Be warned: Agiasos is PACKED on this day! Life in Agiasos revolves around the many kafenions that surround the church. Men drink ouzo and eat mezé and tourists wander in and out of the pottery and antique shops that line the cobbled streets. The village is at a high enough altitude to be cool in the hot summer months so do not be afraid of visiting during the day! And, since most of the island's tourist activity takes place on the beaches and the coastal towns, places like Agiasos have maintained their traditions and time spent here is similar to the way it would have been 100 years ago. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 72km / 1 hour and 20 minutes leisurely drive
Agra is a traditional Greek village set into the mountain side and the gateway to the west of the island. It can be easily bypassed by using the recently built wide road that connects the centre of the island to the west but that would be a shame. Much like its neighbouring Mesotopos, is it as if it hasn't been touched for over 100 years and so is well worth a quick trip back in time. Sit in its leafy, shaded square and enjoy a café elliniko. When driving across the island at night, you will think you have stumbled across a fairy village as all you can see of Agra from the new road is its glittering lights in the mountain side. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 13km / 22 minutes easy-going drive.
Agra
Agra is a traditional Greek village set into the mountain side and the gateway to the west of the island. It can be easily bypassed by using the recently built wide road that connects the centre of the island to the west but that would be a shame. Much like its neighbouring Mesotopos, is it as if it hasn't been touched for over 100 years and so is well worth a quick trip back in time. Sit in its leafy, shaded square and enjoy a café elliniko. When driving across the island at night, you will think you have stumbled across a fairy village as all you can see of Agra from the new road is its glittering lights in the mountain side. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 13km / 22 minutes easy-going drive.

Shopping and business essentials

This important mini-metropolis is located in the very centre of the island and, as such, most routes go through it! It is the place to go for banks, offices, postal services, and a wide variety of hardware stores, supermarkets, shops, cafes and bars. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 39km - 50 minutes easy going drive
Kalloni
This important mini-metropolis is located in the very centre of the island and, as such, most routes go through it! It is the place to go for banks, offices, postal services, and a wide variety of hardware stores, supermarkets, shops, cafes and bars. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 39km - 50 minutes easy going drive
The capital of the island. You will find absolutely everything here, from banks and law offices to clothes shops, spice stores and restaurants galore. But don't think that it is just a shopping centre: Mytilini is steeped in a rich historical tapestry, as its architecture, maze of café-lined streets and spectacular Byzantine castle will testify. This is a place well-worth spending a day exploring. Start at the centre on Ermou street and wander through its antique stores before grabbing a coffee at the famous Music Café. Then head on down to the harbour road to find a taverna for lunch before driving out a little way for an afternoon swim. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 78km / 1 hour, 30 minutes easy-going drive.
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Mitilini
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The capital of the island. You will find absolutely everything here, from banks and law offices to clothes shops, spice stores and restaurants galore. But don't think that it is just a shopping centre: Mytilini is steeped in a rich historical tapestry, as its architecture, maze of café-lined streets and spectacular Byzantine castle will testify. This is a place well-worth spending a day exploring. Start at the centre on Ermou street and wander through its antique stores before grabbing a coffee at the famous Music Café. Then head on down to the harbour road to find a taverna for lunch before driving out a little way for an afternoon swim. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 78km / 1 hour, 30 minutes easy-going drive.

Bars and nightlife

By far the best and most popular bar in Skala Eressos! This well-established and notorious beach bar/club is owned by Christos and Anastasia and is situated right on the water's edge. Open all hours in the summer months, it is THE place to hang out day and night. Offering an incredible range of home-cooked food with a Latin twist and the very best cocktails mixed by resident cocktail artisans, there is something for every taste. And the sunsets are spectacular! As night falls, the laid-back tunes turn into funky beats and there is always a range of DJs and specialist evenings taking centre stage. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18 km / 28 minutes easy-going drive.
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Parasol
17 yerel halk öneriyor
By far the best and most popular bar in Skala Eressos! This well-established and notorious beach bar/club is owned by Christos and Anastasia and is situated right on the water's edge. Open all hours in the summer months, it is THE place to hang out day and night. Offering an incredible range of home-cooked food with a Latin twist and the very best cocktails mixed by resident cocktail artisans, there is something for every taste. And the sunsets are spectacular! As night falls, the laid-back tunes turn into funky beats and there is always a range of DJs and specialist evenings taking centre stage. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18 km / 28 minutes easy-going drive.
A rather cool hang out space up the mountains and overlooking the entire bay of Tavari. Open day and night during the summer months, its views are well-worth sampling. This is a late-night music bar so expect to be treated to live music (both rock and traditional bouzouki) well into the early hours! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 10 minutes drive / 30 minutes walk
Allegro music bar
A rather cool hang out space up the mountains and overlooking the entire bay of Tavari. Open day and night during the summer months, its views are well-worth sampling. This is a late-night music bar so expect to be treated to live music (both rock and traditional bouzouki) well into the early hours! DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 10 minutes drive / 30 minutes walk
This well-established and famous beach bar is an amazing place built on the edge of the sea front and boasting some of the best sunsets on the island. Open from early in the morning for coffee to late at night, it is a great place to bag a comfortable space and hang out for hours. The music during the day is chilled and relaxed but picks up in the evening with resident DJs taking turns on the decks. NB: Can only be reached via some steep steps down from the main road. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 60km / 1 hour and 20 minutes easy-going drive around some of the bendiest roads on the island! The views on the way are incredible!
Congas Beach Bar
This well-established and famous beach bar is an amazing place built on the edge of the sea front and boasting some of the best sunsets on the island. Open from early in the morning for coffee to late at night, it is a great place to bag a comfortable space and hang out for hours. The music during the day is chilled and relaxed but picks up in the evening with resident DJs taking turns on the decks. NB: Can only be reached via some steep steps down from the main road. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 60km / 1 hour and 20 minutes easy-going drive around some of the bendiest roads on the island! The views on the way are incredible!
The open-air cinema in Eressos is a delight each and every time and perfect for solo travellers and families alike looking for something a little different to do in the warm evenings. Showing all the latest movies in English (with Greek sub-titles), Cine Sappho serves beer, popcorn and ice cream both before the film showing and in the interval (yes, there's an interval!). Think about it: watching a wonderful movie under the stars! Priceless. TIP: Even if it is really hot, take something to put around your shoulders as it can get a little breezy at times. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18 km / 28 minutes easy-going drive.
Cine Sappho Magicnights
The open-air cinema in Eressos is a delight each and every time and perfect for solo travellers and families alike looking for something a little different to do in the warm evenings. Showing all the latest movies in English (with Greek sub-titles), Cine Sappho serves beer, popcorn and ice cream both before the film showing and in the interval (yes, there's an interval!). Think about it: watching a wonderful movie under the stars! Priceless. TIP: Even if it is really hot, take something to put around your shoulders as it can get a little breezy at times. DISTANCE FROM AEGEAN BLUE RETREAT: 18 km / 28 minutes easy-going drive.